The price is broken down as follows
- 4000€ of material
- Including the lesser values for the three blockers and the reefing lines
- x3 KHR 5 aluminum hooks
- Modification of the boom and mast to add a padeye
- 20 friction rings to make the path of the hook controls
- x2 3-hole harken ropes organizers for the return of the controls to the helm station
- Delrin blocks for the mounting of the organizers
- Hook mounting on the boom (300€)
- Adjustment with the sail in port by North
- Finally, the rest of the costs includes:
- Outremer BE labor (pre-study, 3D plan, purchase nomenclature)
- Production time
- Full day of sea trial with the design office and a skipper for the final adjustment
Model
- Karver KHR with soft shackles
We don’t have drawing yet but the line will be led to the cockpit with non-friction ring at the mast and organizer on the deck
REEF HOOK | MATERIAL | WEIGHT
(kg) | WORK LOAD (T) | BREAKING LOAD (T) | PRICING
(€ - Incl. VAT) |
KHR4 | Anodized Alu | 0.299 kg | 4 T | 8 T | € 788 |
KHR5 | Anodized Alu | 0.488 kg | 5 T | 10 T | € 804 |
KHR8 | Anodized Alu | 0.66 kg | 8 T | 16 T | € 899 |
KHR6+ | Stainless Steel | 0.884 kg | 6 T | 12 T | € 2,227 |
KHR8+ | Stainless Steel | 1.442 kg | 8 T | 16 T | € 3,002 |
KARVER SYSTEMS
BIOTREK
MAINSAIL REEF HOOK
This hopefully solves a problem I have struggled with on both my previous boats. When reefed, the line that secures the mainsail clew to the boom is under constant tension. It is the source of loud creaking noises, and the contact with the low friction ring at the clew causes a lot of chafe. We sail with reefs in a lot, so I really wanted to solve this issue. I discussed it with Matthieu, and it turns out Outremer are now offering an option on their boats that addresses this problem.
Facnor Reef Lock on 1st reef point
The Facnor Reef Lock captures the clew reef shackle and takes the load off the reefing line. No more chafe, and no more creaking! We are adding this to Puffin on our 1st reef point, which is the one we use the most and also places the most load on the reefing lines.
Per Outremer SAV ‘Stephane’ Works well for 1st reef, 50% of the time for the second reef, never works for the 3rd reef due to the stacking of the sail.
REEFING DOWNING
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Follow
We regularly reef downwind. We have Ronstan cars that have slides and ball bearings, so not very slippery. That said, our technique does not require a downhaul line, but we may install one in the future.
1. Set autopilot to any angle not more downwind than 170* AWA.
2. Bring the traveller most of the way to windward and ease the sheet so the boom is near to the leeward end of the traveller. This allows it raise and come towards the centre as you take in the clew reef line.
3. Take in the reef clew line until it won’t go anymore - this will raise and centre the boom and pull the upper sail off the rigging.
4. Lower the halyard until the sail falls against the rig and doesn’t lower on its own.
5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 until you can secure the tack at the reef you want.
6. Take up halyard until you have the luff tension you want.
7. Bring in the clew reef line until you have the foot tension you want (and the reef clew is near enough to the boom).
8. Bring in the sheet and lower the traveller until you have the trim you want.
Reefing upwind is easier as the sail is blown away from the rig, so lower halyard and secure tack first, then bring in and secure the clew. In really big winds this is where a luff pull-down line could help.
Regarding main halyard friction reduction, we replaced the bushed upper sheave with a larger ball bearing version. Also, make sure that you periodically remove the halyard and take all the twists out (every couple of years). When you flake the halyard never ever put half twists into the line to make it lay flat - butterfly flake with no twists, or figure-8.
If you have a 2:1 halyard then make sure the halyard block at the mainsail head does not swivel.
If your halyard is twisting around itself, the only option is to remove it from the mast and trail it behind the boat at speed or some other method to get the twists out. If it’s badly twisted then you may need a new line. To prevent twists in the first place, three things:
- The halyard block at the head of the mainsail (assuming you have a 2:1 halyard) must not swivel.
- Never take the turns of line around of a winch by pulling the line from above the winch - this puts those turns into the line. Instead, lead all the line around the winch as you take each turn off. So normally if you don’t need the main halyard winch for something else, leave the halyard on the winch while sailing and then at the end of the sailing lower the halyard by letting the line slide around the winch. It’s easier to do then try to explain, sorry.
- Never flake the halyard with a half twist to make it lay flat. Take it off the winch, then butterfly flake it (same as how rock climbers handle their lines) or figure-8.
Search this forum for "downwind reefing" and you'll find lots of useful information posted over the last 3-4 years. Downhaul lines on the luff make a huge difference. It allows you to keep the sail taut and off the spreaders while reefing downwind.
